Hollyhocks when do they flower

Hollyhocks have long taproots, so if seeds are started indoors, use tall, individual pots and transplant early to avoid damage. Start indoor seeds about 9 weeks before the last average frost date.

Seedlings can be placed outside two to three weeks after the last frost. Also, bear in mind that some are biennials and may not bloom until their second year. Plant in a well-draining area with full sun to partial shade. Due to their height, protect from damaging winds and provide support such as a fence, wall, trellis or stake. Also, hollyhocks are one of very few plants that can be planted in proximity to black walnut trees because they are tolerant of the chemical juglone that is leached into the soil by the tree.

Hollyhock flowers can be removed when they fade and stalks can be cut back after flowering. This will prevent seed heads from forming and reseeding. Provide regular water and keep soil moist for starting hollyhocks. However, once well established, they are fairly drought tolerant. Water from below and avoid wetting the foliage, as this can lead to diseased leaves.

Hollyhocks are best, and easiest, grown from seed and they will readily self-seed if flower stalks are left in place. They are prone to hollyhock rust, a fungal infection that first shows as yellow spots on leaves, then develops into brown or rust colored bumps on the underside of the leaves. Preventing rust is much easier than trying to tame an outbreak. Watering from below, good air circulation and thorough late fall cleanup will go a long way in stopping rust from forming.

Any leaves that show signs of rust should be removed from the plant and disposed of to prevent further spread. There are cultivars that have been developed to be more rust resistant, such as Alcea rugosa varieties. Slugs, snails, spider mites and Japanese beetles can be problematic as well. Hollyhocks are seldom browsed by deer. In areas that get hard freezes, hollyhocks can be grown as annuals, starting seeds in containers and over-wintering indoors.

Water sparingly over the winter and gradually reintroduce them outside when the weather begins to warm up. In other areas where they can be left outside, prune them back to about 6 inches above ground level in the fall.

Cover with 4 to 6 inches of straw or mulch over the root zone and base of the plant. It can take a further five weeks before plants are ready to prick out. Alternatively, sow seed in summer, and plant out in autumn. These plants should flower the following year. Hollyhocks need very little care. Stake flowering plants and water in dry weather.

After flowering. Discover the three Golden Rules of growing hollyhocks, in this video featuring hollyhock expert, Mary Baker:. Hollyhocks can be susceptible to hollyhock rust.

This is easy to spot as the leaves and stems will be covered in orange-brown spots. In extreme cases the plant will die. The first signs of the problem are visible on the undersides of the leaves. Remove infected leaves as soon as you spot them and burn them.

In autumn clear away and destroy any fallen leaves as the fungus will overwinter in the soil. Kick start the festive season and get in touch with your creative side with our minute online class on creating Christmas wreaths with natural materials. The perfect seasonal addition to your garden, these low-maintenance expertly trained evergreen trees can be enjoyed for years to come. Low-maintenance creeping, hardy carpet Phlox is ideal for colourful, spring ground cover.

If you water after sowing, the water can move the seeds about and they might end up bunching together. Sow the large seeds individually, spacing about an 5cm 2in apart on the compost surface. Don't push the seed, leave them on the surface so they are clearly visible as you continue to sow. When the tray is full, cover lightly with compost.

Place the tray in a warm spot to germinate. You don't need light at this stage. I cover seed trays with an empty, opened out compost bag to keep in warmth and moisture and to speed up the germination process. After about a week, check trays every morning and night for germination. Once this starts, remove the light-excluding plastic. Hollyhocks take around days to germinate and then another weeks before they're ready for pricking out. If roots are showing at the base of the tray, they're ready to move on.

To prick out, handle only the seed leaves, not the stem which bruises very easily. Get a pencil or stiff plant label right under each plant and try to tease out every individual seedling, roots and all. Place each seedling into its own pot of peat-free compost, firm down and water. The ideal spot for growing on has maximum all-round light. Ideally, plants should have warm roots but cool tops. Hollyhocks will be ready for planting out in the garden by June, but won't flower well until the following year.

If you get the odd plant trying to flower sooner, snip off the flower spike. This helps the roots to get established before the demands of flowering begin — otherwise you might end up with a weaker plant and that could lead to more trouble with rust. If you have bought your hollyhocks as plug plants, pot them up in larger pots and allow them to establish a good root system before planting in the ground.

If you have bought hollyhocks in larger containers with established root systems, plant them outdoors May-July, or alternatively in autumn.

Space them around 60cm 2ft apart. To help the plant establish well, sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi Rootgrow onto the roots of the plant before placing in the planting hole.

Water well after planting. The essential thing to know with hollyhocks grown in containers is that they need plenty of room. Hollyhocks have long taproots as well as lateral roots that need space, so the deeper the pot, the better.

Containers with a barrel-like shape work best.